In Giresun breakfast is a part of the trip to be planned, not an afterthought. The reason is kuymak: cornmeal, butter and the local cheese coming together in a copper pan, stretchy and very filling.
What is kuymak?
Called muhlama in some places. Cheese is added to cornmeal roasted in butter and stretched by stirring. Served hot in the pan, eaten with bread.
Kuymak is very filling. If you are planning a highland walk or an intensive tour afterwards, consider sharing a portion.
Where to eat?
In the highland · the right place
Kuymak's real home is the highland. On the Kümbet road and in the highland there are family businesses; some stay open all year, with the stove lit in winter. It is made with the region's own cheese and butter.
The businesses at the entrance to Kulakkaya also serve a local breakfast; you may come across genuinely local plates such as pancar soup.
On the shore band
There are places on the coast road that open early in the morning. Businesses making Çakallı menemen are concentrated on this line; practical for a filling start before heading up to the highland.
The centre and bazaar
In the city centre there are places serving a spread breakfast. The weight of local produce is less than in the highland, but the choice is wide.
What to order?
| Dish | Note |
|---|---|
| Kuymak (muhlama) | The region's signature, a must |
| Kaygana | A thick pancake with egg, cornmeal and greens |
| Cornbread | Kuymak's natural partner |
| Home-made butter | The difference is clear in the highland |
| Hazelnut butter | Local production, the unsweetened is better |
| Çakallı menemen | On the shore band |
Timing
- If you are heading to the highland: Have an early breakfast on the shore and set out, or have it in the highland; do not do both.
- Breakfast in the highland: 09:00-11:00 is ideal; you see the view before the mist descends.
- At the weekend: Popular places are crowded; go early.
Practical notes
- In the highland and at small businesses cards are not accepted, so carry cash.
- There is no shop on the highland road; buy water and snacks down below.
- Kuymak portions are usually large; two people can share one.
On the map
On the map breakfast spots run from the shore to the highland; the highland is kuymak's home.
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