The Black Sea makes you think of anchovy, but it comes down to timing. Those who go to Giresun in summer looking for anchovy are usually disappointed. Let me set out the season and the alternatives clearly.
The anchovy season
November to January. In this period anchovy is plentiful, fresh and cheap. December is usually the best month.
Out of season, take care: Be wary of places offering "fresh anchovy" in the summer months. Anchovy fishing is banned in certain periods; what is sold out of season is usually frozen. If it is not written on the menu, ask.
How is it eaten?
| Dish | What |
|---|---|
| Fried anchovy | Coated in cornmeal and fried · the most common |
| Anchovy rice | Anchovy and rice cooked together, in the oven |
| Anchovy bird | Two anchovies back to back, in the pan |
| Boned anchovy | Boned, opened-out anchovy |
| Anchovy bread | In the oven, with bread dough |
It always comes with cornbread and black cabbage. Pickles and onion are classic accompaniments too.
What to eat out of season?
There is fish in the Black Sea in summer too, not only anchovy:
- Horse mackerel — common in the summer months
- Whiting — fried and steamed
- Bonito — autumn
- Red mullet — depending on the season
- Trout — at the valley facilities, freshwater
- Scorpionfish — highlighted by some places
You can eat trout at the facilities in the Dereli valley. It is not sea fish, but it is the natural lunch of a nature outing; a standard part of the waterfall-and-travertine tour.
Where to eat?
The centre and around the harbour
The places near the harbour work fresher in the late afternoon. There are places where you can choose your own fish from the counter; a visible kitchen is a good sign.
The castle road
Around the castle there are scenic options. Timing it with the sunset can be the most enjoyable part of the trip.
The coast road and districts
There are sea-view places on the Bulancak and Tirebolu shores; they can be better value than the centre.
Practical notes
- Fish is sold by portion or by weight; clarify before ordering.
- Ask for the catch of the day; not everything on the menu is fresh every day.
- Evenings are busy; it can be hard to find a table at small places.
- Anchovy is cheap in season, expensive and most likely frozen out of season.
On the map
On the map the fish spots line the shore; the harbour side works freshest in the late afternoon.
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