Giresun looks like a small city on the Black Sea coast that would end if you walked 40 kilometres. Yet within the province's borders there is a geography that climbs from sea level to 3,107 metres. On the same day you can eat fish on the shore and walk through the mist at 1,800 metres. Building your plan around this works far better than building it around district names.
Below I have divided Giresun into five elevation bands. What is in each band, how long it takes and what to watch out for, in order.
Coastal band: 0-150 metres
The heart of the city is here. Giresun Castle on the peninsula should be the first stop: its location matters as much as the structure itself. Its core, reaching back to the Kingdom of Pontus, was repaired many times under Rome, Byzantium, the Empire of Trebizond and the Ottomans. Today part of the walls and the traces of the gates survive. The interior was turned into a public promenade in the 20th century; the grave of Topal Osman, a controversial figure of the War of Independence, is also here.
Go up to the castle half an hour before sunset. The island, the harbour and the hazelnut groves all fit in one frame. There is a tea house and a small restaurant at the top.
Giresun Island is the only island on Turkey's Black Sea coast. Associated with Amazon legends, it carries ruins reaching back to the Hellenistic period and the remains of a monastery. Boat trips are seasonal; in winter they usually do not run. During the Aksu Festival in the third week of May, interest in the island rises sharply.
In the city, the Giresun Museum (the former Gogora Church), the stone streets and mansions of the Zeytinlik neighbourhood and the historic stone gate of the Millet Garden are within walking distance. Visit Zeytinlik early in the morning or in the late afternoon; the light is much better on the stone facades.
Hazelnut band: 150-600 metres
Climbing up from the coast, the view turns to hazelnut groves. In this band there are fewer individual stops and more roadside scenery. Even so, three stops stand out.
The Yedi Değirmenli Cave (Espiye) is a nature park that takes its name from the historic water mills around it. Small waterfalls, walking paths and a cave are all together; you can picnic in the gazebos. The walk is a little long but the scenery is worth it.
Tirebolu is the most photogenic district on the coast. Tirebolu Castle (St. Jean Castle) on the cape reaching into the sea is small but very well placed. In the same district, Bedrama Castle stands inland, on a ridge.
The Yağlıdere valley ranks first in Turkey in this field, with its well-preserved 12 stone arch bridges. The Ağa Bridge, built in 1816, is the best known of them.
Note: The area around the Ağa Bridge is neglected and there is a litter problem in places. The bridge itself is beautiful but do not expect a landscaped visitor site. It is 5 km from Yağlıdere centre, on a mountain road.
Spruce forest: 600-1,500 metres
This band is Giresun's least known but perhaps most beautiful part. The road narrows, the forest closes in, the mist begins.
The Kuzalan Waterfall and the Göksu Travertines are in the same valley. The travertines are a natural wonder where mineral water paints the rocks white and forms turquoise pools; likened to Pamukkale, but the difference is that this one sits amid lush green mountains and you can go into the water. You can take off your shoes and walk over the pools.
Mavigöl and the Kuzalan Nature Park are on the same route. Putting all three in one day is possible.
On the history side there are the Meryem Ana Monastery (Şebinkarahisar) and the Kırkharman Church. The latter stands on the historic Silk Road route, an abandoned stone church in the middle of nature.
Note: The village road to Kırkharman is very bad after the main road; there is no phone or internet signal. It is hard to reach, so do not go alone.
Highland band: 1,500-2,000 metres
This is what comes to mind first when Giresun is mentioned, and rightly so. The Kümbet, Bektaş, Kulakkaya, Sisdağı and Gölyanı highlands come alive in July and August. Kümbet and Bektaş are known for their festivals; Sisdağı lives up to its name, with mist descending most afternoons.
When going up to the highlands, allow for three things: the drive takes longer than you expect, the weather changes suddenly, and the evening cool requires a jacket even in summer.
Summit and interior: above 2,000 metres
Karagöl Mountain, at 3,107 metres, is the roof of the province. Known for its glacial lakes; reaching Karagöl requires a serious hike, not a light day trip.
In the interior, Şebinkarahisar is a separate world: its castle on the rock, the urban-conservation fabric of the Tamzara neighbourhood, the Fatih Mosque, the Kurşunlu Mosque and the Atatürk House easily fill a full day. It takes 2.5-3 hours from the coast, so it makes more sense to plan an overnight stay rather than a day trip.
Where to start?
| Time | Suggestion |
|---|---|
| 1 day | Castle, Island, Zeytinlik, museum, coast in the evening |
| 2 days | + Kuzalan, Göksu Travertines, Mavigöl |
| 3 days | + Kümbet or Bektaş highland |
| 4 days+ | + Şebinkarahisar (with an overnight stay) |
Each of the 63 stops in the guide has its elevation, sightseeing time, price information and one-tap navigation. You can also select several stops and build an ordered route.
On the map
Each of the 63 stops in the guide has its elevation, sightseeing time and price, plus one-tap navigation.
Open the guide