Giresun is associated with summer: open highlands, boat trips, festivals. But the province's real balance is struck in autumn. The crowds recede, the air cools, the light softens. The highlands stay open for a few more weeks, the sea is still warm, and once the hazelnuts are picked the whole region shifts into a kind of calm. Plan autumn well and you see Giresun at its most photogenic and least crowded.
Why autumn is a good idea
Three reasons. First, the crowds: from mid-September the highland roads and the coast empty out, and you won't queue at the businesses. Second, light and mist: the Black Sea morning mist reaches its densest, most spectacular state in autumn and clears towards noon. Third, the seasonal crossover: in a single day you may swim on the coast and see the first snow in the highlands.
September: the hazelnut ends, the sea goes on
September is a transition month. August's hazelnut harvest ends, the groves empty, and fresh produce appears in the district markets. As the sea warmed all summer, you can still swim in September; the Piraziz and Espiye shores are quieter this month. The highlands are fully open but the evenings cool noticeably, so bring an extra layer.
October: colour time in the highlands
October is autumn's visual peak. Spruce and beech forests turn yellow and red, and the highland meadows change colour. The forest roads around Kümbet, Bektaş and Kulakkaya are ideal for photography this month. From mid-October the first snow may appear on the high highlands; road conditions become variable from then on, so check the weather and roads before you set out.
November: mist, rain and the start of anchovy
In November most highlands become inaccessible and rainfall increases. But a new season opens on the city side: anchovy. November to February is anchovy's real season, and the fish restaurants come alive this month. Misty, rainy November days suit a museum, castle, Zeytinlik and bazaar walk; the route turns from the coast inland, into the city.
Where to go
For autumn I suggest three clusters. For colour and forest, the Kümbet-Bektaş-Kulakkaya line; for mist and views, Sisdağı and the Gedikkaya hill in the city; for a quiet sea and coast, Uluburun and the Piraziz shore. The Şebinkarahisar side is also beautiful in autumn but the drive is long, so set aside a separate day.
A 2-day autumn plan
Day 1: Go up to the castle and Gedikkaya early to see the city and the island as the mist lifts; in the afternoon, forest colour on the Kümbet-Kulakkaya line; in the evening, anchovy in the city.
Day 2: Morning at Uluburun and the Espiye shore, midday at Yedi Değirmenler, then Zeytinlik and the museum on the way back. If it rains, spend the second day entirely inside the city.
On the map
The stops carry seasonal notes and durations; you can pick the ones that suit autumn.
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